Patagonian Adventure, On the Rocks
Everything you can imagine is real ~ Pablo Picasso
We visited the surreal Perito Moreno Glacier, one of many glaciers here in Argentina’s Glacier National Park. This area is the 3rd largest reserve of freshwater on the planet, with the Perito Moreno glacier measuring up to 5 km wide. The magnitude of a glacier with a face that is 150 feet tall and with an ice field that extends as far as we can see up toward the distant mountain peaks is awe inspiring. The boat took us to the face and we hiked to the edge and up onto the glacier ice itself. Walking around we saw streams pouring down the crevasses until they find a way down to the depths. The intense blue color of these pools was very surreal. We filled our water bottle with fresh glacier water to quench our thirst.
Kids on the glacier in an ice cave.
It looked so refreshing and the weather was like a warm day of spring skiing so it was perfect. It is very windy here in Patagonia, but on the glacier the mountains must have shielded us, it was warm and perfect. Everything about the experience on the ice was wonderful…. until we had an accident. Shia saw another trekker do a handstand and was inspired. Her sudden reaction to try a handstand on the ice led to her crampons hitting Heidi in the kisser. Immediately it felt like a major Rocky Balboa incident and the guide rushed over. Chad was entertained by the red blood contrasting with the white ice. Fortunately she didn’t miss a beat on the tour despite the detour to get some first aid- it was easy to ice it right away! The tour company was very accommodating and helpful, even escorting and translating at the hospital after the tour had ended. After a couple of stitches, she is just fine. But, enough of that drama… back to the Glacier!
Panoramic view of the face of Perito Moreno Glacier
After hiking on the ice we went to a viewpoint along the other side of the face. From our first vantage point we thought we saw the whole face and then when we go to the tip we saw the real magnitude of the glacier. Hearing the thunder of the ice moving periodically and watching what seemed like small chunks breaking off into the lake below and realizing that the “small chunk” was likely the size of a bus was amazing. After a chunk calves off it exposes fresh ice with that vibrant blue like a sapphire. It was mesmerizing to observe. This glacier is actually splitting the lake into two distinct halves. Right now the water is 7 meters higher on one side, that changes day by day, week by week. This glacier is one of the few that is still growing and to experience it first hand will be a precious memory for us all. And Heidi will have the souvenir scar on her lip to remember it by. She was also able to ice it again the next day when we visited the GlacioBar. The Glacier Museum has a bar entirely made of ice, including the drinking vessels. A couple iced cocktails and some thumping music in the ice bar was just what the Dr. ordered.
Continuing our Patagonian adventure we went back into the National Park to stay overnight at Estancia Nibepo Aike. This ranch was settled by a Croatian pioneer in 1910 and as long as it stays in the family it can remain within the National Park since it is grandfathered in. Here we got to experience a sampling of Argentine farm life. At check in they asked us which of their activities we were most excited for. They got a surprise when they read Liam’s response of “Climb a Tree”. Lo and behold he had sighted a perfect climbing tree and every minute of Shia and Liam’s free time was spent up that tree. For the activities we watched the Gauchos barrel race their horses, sheer sheep, and the kids got to bottle feed a baby lamb. Then we woke early for the kids to try their hand at milking the cows. Which was an awesome tribute to their Grandpa Bill who had that chore daily at their age. The scenery everywhere around the ranch was stunning. Summer wildflowers are in bloom, the mountains loom overhead and the whipping winds create a continuous kaleidoscope of clouds. Off in the distance the bright white and hints of blue from the glaciers peek through the rolling clouds and down below the maze of the lake changes color with the moving sun. And there is plenty of sun as it doesn’t set until 10:30. My camera was working overtime. After milking the cows, we had a wonderful breakfast and set off on horseback to the ridge and more panoramic views of the Andes. The horses were beautiful, incredibly easy going, and the saddles felt suspiciously comfortable.
